Incredible Fall 1999 Dolce & Gabbana runway feather light black goat hair coat.

Description

Looking at this sensational coat from Dolce & Gabbana's Fall 1999 collection countless adjectives come to our mind: very rare, runway documented, cool, timeless, special, feather light, versatile, sophisticatedly glamorous. A wearable collector's piece!

The coat is the twin of the one modeled by Kim Iglinsky and Kirsten Owen on the runway. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana did jacket versions as well in black, pink and blue. We have included runway photos and a video for you (see the video 12:13 below) to see how nonchalant this is once on the body.

The design is crafted in Italy entirely from black goat hair and silk chiffon. The goat hair stripes are set onto the base fabric, the black silk chiffon, in horizontal rows which allows it to drape on the body perfectly so that when you are wearing it, it moves with you wonderfully.

It features a straight cut, a round collar and three-quarter length sleeves. Ends below the knee and feels like next to nothing on. Closes with a row of oversized press buttons. Fully lined in black silk chiffon. The goat hair gives it a rich, deep texture and you will be able to wear it over anything.

This treasure, like several others that are already available in our shop, comes direct from a German socialite and fashion collector so has not been on the market prior to this.

Condition

This coat is in excellent vintage condition. Worn very little.

Size & Fit

Shoulders: 43 cm – 16.93"

Bust: 90 cm – 35.43"

Waist: 86 cm – 33.86"

Hips: 94 cm – 37.01"

Sleeve length: 48 cm – 18.9"

Length: 112 cm – 44.09"

All measurements are taken flat. Bust, waist and hips measurements across from side seam to side seam and then DOUBLED.

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-S

Reference photos & video: Fall 1999 Dolce & Gabbana Runway Show.

Ultra cool Spring/Summer 1989 Moschino Couture fringe wrap coat.

Description

Early Moschino pieces designed by Franco Moschino himself – often referred to as Italian fashion's "enfant terrible" – within the short period when he launched the House of Moschino in 1983 until he passed away in 1994 are sought after and highly collectible.

This incredible coat from Franco Moschino's Spring/Summer 1989 runway collection could have stepped off this year's spring runway since fringes are back and a major trend! The twin of this eye-catching yet sophisticated design walked the runway that season (see video 5:42 below). It is a wearable collectors piece which captures the fun vibe that Moschino has always represented as a brand.

The black coat has sleek and simple lines and that great oversized feel to it that was so prevalent during the 1980s. It slips on, wraps and ties into place to create shape with the original matching belt that is finished off with beautiful tassels. Otherwise no closure, it looks equally great worn open and makes it very versatile. In my opinion the perfect transition piece!

Of course the star of the design is the extensive fine fringe work all around the neckline and hem and under the back's yoke. It celebrates fringe's inherent movement and creates a truly unique look!

Fully lined in black silky fabric and wraps and ties to close. High center back slit. Labelled "Moschino Couture! Made in Italy" and tagged a vintage IT 44, D 40, GB 12, USA 10. The coat is meant to be big and oversized so should work on a range of sizes.

This treasure, like several others that are already available in the shop, comes direct from a German socialite and fashion collector so has not been on the market prior to this.

Condition

This coat is in excellent condition. Appears unworn.

Size & Fit

Bust: 128 cm – 50.39" (under the arms from side seam to side seam)

Sleeve length: 71 cm – 27.95" (measured from shoulder seam)

Length: 121 cm – 47.64" (from neck to hem including fringes)

Measurements are taken flat and then doubled for the bust.

Approximte Modern Size: S-L

Reference photos: Elisabeth, owner of Oh! Jackie wearing the coat for a photo shoot.

Elegant and beautifully tailored Valentino Roma suit from the 1990s.

Description

This sophisticated two piece trouser suit has a sleek, minimalist and yet feminine feel.

Both pieces are made in Italy from a fine black rayon blend fabric that is light in weight and has a slight texture. It is just heavy enough to hold the shape perfectly.

The first thing you notice about the jacket is the exceptional shawl collar that ends in two straps that can be either left loose or tied. Fully lined in a black silky fabric featuring the iconic "V" logo that has become the house of Valentino's signature, the waisted design closes with a single logo engraved button at the base of the collar underneath the straps. Two faux flap pockets are well-placed on both sides below the waist for some detailing. The shoulders have light padding and the sleeves fall from there in a straight sleek line to the cuff.

The trousers are classic and simple in their style. They are flat fronted with a crease, cut straight down to the ankles and zip to close at the left side.

Both pieces are tagged an Italian size 44 and US 8 (vintage).

This treasure comes direct from a German client's couture wardrobe so has not been on the market prior to this.

Condition

This suit is in excellent vintage condition. Appears hardly ever worn.

Size & Fit

Jacket

Shoulders: 41 cm – 16.14" (seam to seam)

Bust: 98 cm – 38.58" (under the arms from side seam to side seam)

Waist: 84 cm – 33.07"

Sleeve length: 61,5 cm – 24.21" (measured from shoulder seam)

Length: 68 cm – 26.77" (from neck to hem)

Trousers

Waist: 76 cm – 29.92"

Hips: 100 cm – 39.37"

Length: 112 cm – 44.09"

Measurements are taken flat and then doubled for bust, waist and hips.

Approximate Modern Size: S-M

Reference photo: Designer Valentino Garavani walks the runway at the finale of the Valentino Fall 1997 Ready to Wear Runway Show on March 16, 1997, in Paris, France (Getty Images).

Museum-held documented A/W 1982 Azzedine Alaïa leather jacket from the designer's very first ready-to-wear collection.

Description

"When I design a garment, I am not looking to affirm a particular style. I think of the women who will wear it. I believe that I can say about my clothes that they are impossible to date, they are made to last." – Azzedine Alaïa

Throughout his career, the designer sought to perfect his vision of timeless beauty. And “his unique sense of the body and body dressing started an ongoing revolution,” noted Vogue in 1986.

This instantly recognizable and museum-held (Palais Galliera, Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris) leather jacket is from Autumn/Winter 1982, Azzedine Alaïa's very first ready-to-wear collection and thus a truly special, very rare and collectible piece of fashion history. The collection was officially presented at Bergdorf Goodman in New York in September 1982 and an instant success.

The jacket is made in France from extraordinarily soft and supple black leather and features the signature fitted waist, a low shawl collar and dramatic oversized side hip pockets that continue on the back.

The design has wide sleeves that narrow towards the cuffs with a short zip at the wrist. One chest pocket with a silver coloured zip. The back shows a striking seam detailing. Press stud closure at the front. Fully lined in black acetate. Tagged a French vintage size 40. Runs slightly smaller.

The jacket comes from a couture client and has not been on the market prior to this.

Condition

This jacket is in very good vintage condition. The bottom half of the lining of the left sleeve was replaced by a trained couture seamstress. Not visible from outside.

Size & Fit

Shoulders: 49 cm – 19.29" (dropped seam to seam)

Bust: 90 cm – 35.43" (under the arms from side seam to side seam)

Waist: 75 cm – 29.53"

Hips: 102 cm – 40.16"

Sleeve length: 61 cm – 24.02" (measured from real shoulder)

Length: 73 cm – 28.74"

Measurements are taken flat and then doubled for bust, waist and hips.

Approximate Modern Size: S

Reference photos: Fall 1982 Azzedine Alaia Leather Jacket photographed by Horst P. Horst for Vogue Paris November 1982 / Azzedine Alaïa drawings of the first ready-to-wear collection, Autumn/Winter 1982 / Women's Wear Daily article about the presentation of Alaïa's first collection at Bergdorf Goodman in New York, September 1982 is / A slightly different twin of our jacket presented at the exhibition "Alaïa Afore Alaïa" 2022/2023 in Paris.

Exceptional and rare 1989 Moschino Couture 'I Love Venice' lion appliquéd fringed jacket and trousers suit.

Description

Early Moschino pieces designed by Franco Moschino himself – often referred to as Italian fashion's "enfant terrible" – within the short period when he launched the House of Moschino in 1983 until he passed away in 1994 are sought after and highly collectible.

This treasure, like several others that are already available in the shop comes direct from a German socialite and fashion collector so has not been on the market prior to this.

Crafted in Italy, the exceptional and rare vintage Moschino Couture jacket and trousers suit is part of Franco Moschino's coveted Cruise Me Baby collection from 1989. When designing it Franco Moschino obviously had the Venetian flag in mind (see the last picture).

The suit is a wearable collectors piece and a love letter to Venice and Italy which captures the fun vibe that Moschino has always represented as a brand.

The cherry-red jacket has a cropped boxy shape that is accentuated with gold braiding. Attached decorated "tails" at the bottom are finished with long fringing of the same colour. Six decorative domed gold metal and fabric filigree buttons are set at the center front and close with a hooked chain running between them.

The center back features the eye-catching appliquéd symbol of Venice, the winged lion with a halo around its head and holding a book below its paw with the sentence "I Love Venice" written in it. The jacket has lightly padded shoulders and is lined in a golden rayon.

The matching high-rise slim trousers of the same colour have a tapered straight leg and are unlined.

Both pieces are labeled "Moschino Couture! Made in Italy" and "Cruise me Baby" and tagged a vintage IT 44, D 40, GB 12, USA 10. Run smaller!

Condition

This suit is in excellent condition. Unworn.

Size & Fit

Jacket

Shoulders: 43 cm – 16.93" (seam to seam)

Bust: 102 cm – 40.16" (under the arms from side seam to side seam)

Waist: 102 cm – 40.16"

Sleeve length: 59 cm – 23.23" (measured from shoulder seam)

Length: 60 cm – 23.62" (from neck to hem including fringes)

Fringe length: 14 cm – 5.51"

Trousers

Waist: 66 cm – 25.98"

Length: 100 cm – 39.37"

Measurements are taken flat and then doubled for bust and waist.

Approximate Modern Size: S-M

Reference photos: Elisabeth, owner of Oh! Jackie wearing the suit / Venetian flag

Iconic well-documented Fall 1992 Dolce & Gabbana mirror and pom-pom appliqué velvet tassel vest.

Description

Oh! Jackie is delighted to offer this important and rare Fall 1992 Dolce & Gabbana appliquéd velvet vest.

Indulge in the epitome of true vintage glamour with this runway, ad campaign and TV series documented masterpiece that transcends time. This exquisite black pure cotton velvet waistcoat, adorned with mirrors, pom-poms, and tassels at the hem, is made in Italy and a testament to Dolce & Gabbana's unparalleled craftsmanship.

Like several other exceptional vintage pieces that are already available in the shop, the vest comes direct from a German socialite and fashion collector so has not been on the market prior to this.

Perhaps this waistcoat is the piece with the most documentation I ever had in the shop:

1. The exact twin of it was photographed in advance of the runway show.

2. Runway legends Carla Bruni and Karen Mulder graced the catwalk wearing a jacket version and a sister vest of this captivating item.

3. Steven Meisel shot a motif for the fashion house's Fall 1992 ad campaign with Kate Moss, Nadja Auermann, Tyra Banks, Meghan Douglas and some more 1990s super models sporting the jacket and other pieces embellished with the same mirrors. Please have a look at the reference photos.

But the allure doesn't end there – imagine the inimitable Fran Drescher, as Fran Fine in "The Nanny," donning the jacket version, making this vest a piece of television history. This design truly exudes luxury, creativity, and a touch of star-studded charm.

The vest features a fitted cut accentuating your silhouette and a center button closure. Lined in a black silky what appears to be rayon and labeled "DOLCE & GABBANA". Tagged an Italian size 44 but runs smaller.

Own a piece of fashion history that transcends eras, embodying the spirit of Dolce & Gabbana's iconic Fall 1992 collection – a vest that not only adorns your wardrobe but narrates a story of iconic runways and classic television moments.

Condition

This vest is in excellent vintage condition. Worn once only. The slightest signs of wear/scratching to the mirrors from storage.

Size & Fit

Bust: 84 cm – 33.07"

Waist: 68 cm – 26.77"

Length without tassels: 48 cm – 18.9" (longest part at the front) / 40 cm – 15.75" (measured at the back)

Tassel length: 4,5 cm – 1.77

Measurements for bust and waist are taken flat across from side seam to side seam and then DOUBLED.

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-S

Reference photos: Dolce & Gabbana Fall 1992 Ready to Wear Advance / Dolce & Gabbana Fall 1992 Runway / Dolce & Gabbana Fall 1992 Ad Campaign / Fran Drescher as Fran Fine in "The Nanny", Season 1, Episode 3

Hyper-stylish leather trench coat by Tom Ford for Gucci from the late 1990s.

Description

"If it wasn't by Tom Ford, is it even Gucci?" or as Vogue Runway wrote so aptly: "The now infamous Tom Ford look – what he later called “sexy, sensual, fuck-me clothes” – oozed power and prestige and reminded customers viscerally of the company’s glory days. In short order, Gucci was a global player once again."

Here we have a classically stylish Gucci by Tom Ford black leather trench coat from the late 1990s. The belted design is entirely constructed of supple black lambskin glove leather.

The calf-length coat is unlined and features all elements of a classic trench coat:

Double-breasted cut

Wide lapels

Epaulettes

Button closure

Matching buckle waist belt

Side button welt pockets

Adjustable belted cuffs

Storm flap

Back button vent

Very light in weight! Tagged an Italian size 40.

This treasure comes direct from a German socialite and fashion collector so has not been on the market prior to this.

Condition

This coat is in excellent vintage condition. Worn very little, if at all. 

Size & Fit

Coat

Shoulders: 43 cm – 16.93" (seam to seam)

Bust: 98 cm – 38.58" (under the arms from side seam to side seam)

Waist: 96 cm – 37.8"

Hip: 114 cm – 44.88"

Sleeve length: 61 cm – 24.02" (measured from shoulder seam)

Length: 119 cm – 46.85" (from neck to hem)

Belt

Length: 128 cm – 50.39"

Width: 5,5 cm – 2.17"

Measurements for bust, waist and hips are taken flat across from side seam to side seam and then DOUBLED.

Approximate Modern Size:

XS to S

Reference Photo: Gucci Advertising, 1993

Exceptional Spring/Summer 2004 Prada runway python leather coat.

Description

This fabulous coat was Look 3 in the Spring 2004 line-up from fashion icon Miuccia Prada.

Vogue Runway said of this collection: "Over almost a decade of ground-breaking experimentalism, Miuccia Prada has explored everything from irony to deliberate ugliness to intellectual subversion. She’s been there, done that, and has the souvenirs to prove it. For Spring 2004, the designer turned her attention to the stiffest fashion challenge of the day: how to make feminine, happily nostalgic clothes without rehashing the clichés of vintage?

“It was about tourism and craftsmanship, many things,” she said of a show that revisited the optimistic fifties to bring back a full set of densely packed suitcases. Out tumbled every possible variation on the classic touring wardrobe: circle skirts printed with illustrated Mediterranean scenes, shirtwaists and Capri pants, sundresses and bathing suits, button-through skirts and lovely evening frocks, silk madras bras and little tulle full-skirted dance dresses.

What set the collection apart were the subtle twists, like the way Prada will gently mess up fabric with dip-dye and tie-dye, turn seams inside out, or leave edges raw. Something in the proportion of her neat little tops, belted slightly above the waist, to the fullness and length of her skirts, to the height of her T-strap shoes or pumps, inexplicably excuses the silhouette from the frumpiness of the literal fifties line. Meanwhile, students of Pradaology will note that her sight-seeing tour also revisits some favorite landmarks of her own career: the silk pleated goddess dresses, fur tippets, and grosgrain ribbons tied as belts, all of seasons past. Just another layer of complexity in a beautiful collection that will have women all over the world clamoring, once again, to go where Miuccia leads."

On the runway this was shown layered over a nude chiffon dress with a black dip-dye hem. Please inquire for a short video sequence of the runway show.

The belted coat is made out of python skin in wonderful beige-brown hues and blends luxury and everyday life, reinterpreting the lines of the trench coat. It has classic lapels and straight long sleeves.

The design is unlined and very light in weight. It closes with four buttons down the front and cinches with its original matching buckle belt. Pockets on each hip. Tagged an Italian size 42.

This comes from a client of mine and has not been on the market prior to this. It is an iconic piece of Prada history!

Condition

This coat is in excellent vintage condition. Worn very little. A tiny snag to one of the belt holes that can be repaired easily though (see picture 15).

Size & Fit

Coat

Shoulders: 44 cm – 17.32" (seam to seam)

Bust: 106 cm – 41.73" (under the arms from side seam to side seam)

Waist: 102 cm – 40.16"

Hips: 108 cm – 42.52"

Sleeve length: 61 cm – 24.02" (measured from shoulder seam)

Length: 105 cm – 41.34" (from neck to hem)

Belt

Length: 103,5 cm – 40.75"

Width: 5 cm – 1.97"

Measurements for bust, waist and hips are taken flat across from side seam to side seam and then DOUBLED.

Approximate Modern Size: S

Reference Photos: Spring 2004 Prada Runway

Fancy early 1990s Moschino Cheap and Chic by Franco Moschino blue riding-inspired jacket with red and white detailing.

Description

Early Moschino pieces designed by Franco Moschino himself – often referred to as Italian fashion's "enfant terrible" – within the short period when he launched the House of Moschino in 1983 until he passed away in 1994 are very sought after. This treasure, like several others that will be listed gradually comes direct from a German socialite and fashion collector so has not been on the market prior to this.

This eye-catching blazer is reminiscent of military or riding jackets and captures the fun vibe that Moschino has always represented as a brand.

The navy blue double-breasted, slim-fitting jacket features a cherry-red standing collar with wide white lapels fixed with red fabric covered buttons and long sleeves with red wide cuffs with four contrasting white fabric covered buttons.

The design has light shoulder pads, two front slit pockets (still sewn up) edged in red and a rear central vent with red detailing. It closes with a lovely heart-shaped blue button inside and a double row of red fabric covered buttons at the center front. It is fully lined in cherry-red signed rayon and labeled "Cheap & Chic by Moschino, Made in Italy". Tagged sizes: I 42, D 38, F 38, GB 10, USA 8.

Condition

This jacket is in excellent vintage condition.

Size & Fit

Shoulders: 44 cm – 17.32" (seam to seam)

Bust: 102 cm – 40.16" (under the arms from side seam to side seam)

Waist: 84 cm – 33.07"

Sleeve length: 62 cm – 24.41" (measured from shoulder seam)

Length: 68 cm – 26.77"

Measurements are taken flat and then DOUBLED for bust and waist.

Approximate Modern Size: M

Flamboyant Spring 1993 runway documented Dolce & Gabbana button appliquéd vest.

Description

Dolce & Gabbana's Spring 1993 collection was shown on October 4, 1992, in Milan, Italy. According to Vogue, "Though some models were dressed like dandies and pirates, the prevailing aesthetic was "rich hippie.""

The striking button embellished vest you see here is a wonderful example of this collection's 1970s vibes. Its twin walked the runway as Look 61 from 78. I am delighted to have found documentation of it with several runway pictures (see the photos after the label shot).

The eye-catching and rare Spring 1993 runway documented Dolce & Gabbana vest features a cropped open front design and is crafted from densely woven black cotton. It is sumptuously hand-decorated with circa 200 buttons in various sizes, colours and styles at the front and finished off with a gold ribbon trim along the edges.

Sleeveless, slightly longer at the front, it slips on with no closure. The vest has a good weight to it but once on it balances itself out. It is labelled “Dolce & Gabbana Made in Italy“ and tagged an Italian vintage size 42. Runs smaller and will fit best to sizes XS and S.

This treasure, like several others that will be listed gradually, comes direct from a German socialite and fashion collector, so has not been on the market prior to this.

Condition

This vest is in excellent vintage condition. Appears unworn.

Size & Fit

Shoulders: 36 cm – 14.2"

Bust: 86 cm – 33.9" (flat across the back)

Length: 38 cm – 15" (front) / 36 cm – 14.2" (back)

Bust measurement is taken laid flat across from side seam to side seam and then DOUBLED.

Approximate Modern Size:

up to S

Reference Photos: Dolce & Gabbana Spring 1993 Runway Show

Exquisite 1960s ivory cream fringe and passementerie broadtail lamb fur stole.

Description

This is an outstanding and rare made in Germany by "Dallüge Pelze Hannover" ivory cream broadtail lamb fur stole with remarkable tassel fringe and passementerie detailing from the 1960s. It brings a couture look to every evening or cocktail dress, wedding gown or formal wear in general. Suitable for every season.

The one-of-a-kind authentic fur stole is made from very soft and silky broadtail in creamy ivory. It features a triangular shape, a beautiful passementerie inset and a sublime silk cord tassel fringe edging along the hem. Swings when you move and helps to add length!

The very lightweight and easy-to-wear stole is fully lined in cream satin and has no closure. Small hidden slip pockets on the front. Labelled with a tonal embroidery inside below the neck reading "Dallüge Pelze Hannover". Embroidered with a tonal "GW" monogram and a lovely daisy inside. One size fits most.

Condition

This stole is in very good vintage condition. It has been specialty cleaned. Two yellowish spots on the left side of the back near the hem and on the lining. Please see pictures 9 to 11. Otherwise appears to have been worn very little.

Size & Fit

One size fits most.

Shoulders: approx. 39 cm – 15.35"

Fringe length: 13 cm – 5.12"

Width: approx. 72 cm – 28.35"

Length: approx. 217 cm – 85.43"

Extraordinarily rare Spring/Summer 1994 Moschino Couture "Roman Centurion" Jacket from Franco Moschino's "Cruise me Baby" collection.

Description

Early Moschino pieces designed by Franco Moschino himself – often referred to as Italian fashion's "enfant terrible" – within the short period when he launched the House of Moschino in 1983 until he passed away in 1994 are sought after and highly collectible.

This treasure, like several others that are already available in my shop and more to be listed gradually, comes direct from a German socialite and fashion collector so has not been on the market prior to this.

The exceptional and very rare Moschino Couture jacket is part of Franco Moschino's last creations before he passed away, the S/S 1994 "Cruise Me Baby" collection. I doubt you will see another anytime. It is a museum worthy piece of fashion history that will only increase in value.

When designing this jacket Franco Moschino obviously had the clothing of Roman Centurions in mind. It is an unworn wearable collectors piece and captures the fun vibe that Moschino has always represented as a brand. Franco Moschino once said in a 1994 interview with British GQ: “Funny clothes have to be extremely well made because that is where you find the chic." This design is a perfect example of his outstanding skills.

This elaborately decorated piece of couture pretends to comprise a creamy-white tunic with a cherry-red armour over it. In reality it is one piece that features a slightly fitted silhouette with a crew neck and short sleeves. I love the gathered shoulders with gold braid detailing that give the design just the right amount of femininity!

The upper part of the design shows hand-appliquéd brass tone metal ornaments in the form of small plates and round medallions. Each strip attached in two rows to the waistline is gold braided and decorated with a sculptural metal lion head.

The jacket is fairly heavy as to the metal ornaments but it sits well when on and does not actually feel heavy when worn. It is made from a high-quality acetate and rayon blend and closes with seven small hand-set fabric covered press buttons. Lined in a creme-white silky acetate and rayon mix. It is labeled "Moschino Couture! Cruise me Baby Made in Italy" and tagged a vintage IT 42, D 38, GB 10, USA 8.

Condition

This jacket is in excellent vintage condition. Appears unworn.

Size & Fit

Shoulders: 38 cm – 14.96" (seam to seam)

Bust: 90 cm – 35.43" (under the arms from side seam to side seam)

Waist: 78 cm – 30.7"

Hips: 108 cm – 42.51"

Sleeve length: 23 cm – 9.06" (measured from shoulder seam)

Length: 70 cm – 27.56" from neck to hem

Weight: approx. 1 kg – 2.2 lb

Measurements for bust, waist and hips are taken flat across from side seam to side seam and then DOUBLED.

Modern Sizing Equivalent: S-M

Reference Photo: Elisabeth, Owner of Oh! Jackie.

Lovely S/S 1992 Yves Saint Laurent white multi-coloured "heart" jacket.

Description

This is a beautiful Yves Saint Laurent heart-print spencer jacket with heart-shaped buttons dated from Spring/Summer 1992. The design is from the 'Variation' line which was a second ready-to-wear line – after 'Rive Gauche' – that was created in 1982 and existed for a short period during the 1980s and 1990s only.

The jacket – that can be worn as a top as well – features Yves Saint Laurent's favourite motif, the heart. Bright coloured hearts in red, orange, pink, blue and green with a black outline are printed allover on a structured white pure cotton.

The fitted design has short sleeves with slightly gathered pleats at the top of the shoulders that add a little volume and a charming curved hemline at the front. Two patch pockets at the lower front. Love the six black heart-shaped buttons that close the jacket at the center front.

Bodice lined in white rayon, sleeves are unlined. Made in France. Labelled "Yves Saint Laurent Variation", dated on the fabric label "E 92" for Summer 1992 and tagged a French vintage size 38.

Condition

This jacket is in excellent vintage condition.

Size & Fit

Shoulders: 35 cm – 13.78" (seam to seam)

Bust: 84 cm – 33.07" (under the arms from side seam to side seam)

Waist: 68 cm – 26.77"

Sleeve length: 21 cm – 8.27" (measured from shoulder seam)

Length: 54 cm – 21.26" (from neck to longest part of the hem)

Measurements for bust, waist and hips are taken flat across from side seam to side seam and then DOUBLED. 

Approximate Modern Size: XS-S

Reference Photos: Yves Saint Laurent Runway, 1990s / Saint Laurent Rive Gauche by Francesco Brigida for Encens Magazine, 1971.

Stunning 1980s Leonard Paris black silk blazer with signature floral print and floral-shaped buttons.

Description

Here we have a wonderful 1980s Leonard Paris blazer with one of the fashion house's instantly recognizable signature floral prints.

The design is made from black pure silk and features a beautiful floral print of poppies, chrysanthemums, hydrangeas and peonies in vibrant pink, red, yellow, turquoise and green.

The cut is slightly fitted with wide notched lapels and two patch pockets at the lower front and a smaller one on the left at chest height. It closes with three eye-catching flower-shaped gold-metal buttons that you find at the cuffs as well in a smaller version. Love the matching border that runs around the collar and the cuffs and finishes off the pockets.

The fabric is signed throughout. Fully lined in black silk with light shoulder pads. Labelled "Leonard Paris" and "Max Dietl" (a high-end fashion boutique in Munich, Germany). Size tag reads a French size 2. 

Looks perfect with a pair of sleek slim or slightly flared black trousers!

Condition

This blazer is in excellent vintage condition. Light yellowing to the label. Not visible when worn and mentioned for accuracy only.

Size & Fit

Shoulders: 44 cm – 17.32" (seam to seam)

Bust: 108 cm – 42.52" (under the arms from side seam to side seam)

Waist: 94 cm – 37.01"

Hips: 108 cm – 42.52"

Sleeve length: 60 cm – 23.62" (measured from shoulder seam)

Length: 76 cm – 29.92" from neck to hem

Measurements for bust, waist and hips are taken flat across from side seam to side seam and then DOUBLED.  

Approximate Modern Size: L

Luxe black crushed velvet jacket with passementerie border by Escada from the 1980s.

Description

This Escada by Margaretha Ley jacket or blazer in plush black crushed silk blend velvet comes with a beautiful passementerie border and buttons. The double breasted style jacket features an elegant, waisted silhouette (see back seams on picture 7), a shawl collar, long sleeves with two buttons to each cuff, two front welt pockets and a double button closure at waist. It is fully lined in signed black silk satin, labeled "Escada by Margaretha Ley, Made in W.-Germany" and marked a German size 38.

Ideal for any occasion day or night!

Designer

Escada was founded by Margaretha Ley and her husband Wolfgang in Munich, Germany, 1976. Being a skilled dressmaker, Margaretha Ley was responsible for the creative part of the company. "She possessed a confident sense of style, a designer's flair, a perfectionist's drive and an eye for colours, patterns and top-quality materials. This was perfect in the 1980s, when the radiant and the glittering, the decorative and the striking were in as much demand as visible luxury. Escada celebrated triumph after triumph and was recognized … as a top brand" throughout the world (Escada – The Eccentric Racehorse, German Fashion Design, Distanz Verlag, Berlin).

Margaretha Ley died in 1992. After her death Escada has interpreted its brand values in a new updated way.

Condition

Excellent vintage condition. Seems unworn.

Size & Fit

Shoulders: 44 cm – 17.3"

Bust: 96 cm – 37.8"

Waist: 78 cm – 30.7"

Hips: 96 cm – 37.8"

Sleeve length: 61 cm – 24"

Length: 62 cm – 24.4"

Measurements are taken flat and then doubled for bust, waist and hips.

Corresponding Modern Size:

S(-M)

Beautiful 1990s Leonard Paris black wool knit blazer with signature peony print and lion head buttons.

Description

Here we have a wonderful 1990s Leonard Paris blazer with one of the fashion house's instantly recognizable signature floral prints.

The design is made from pure black wool knit and features the iconic peony print with blossoms in various shades of vibrant pink and green leaves placed on the front and the sleeves. The back is plain black.

The cut is slightly fitted with wide notched lapels and two patch pockets at the lower front. It closes with three eye-catching gold-metal lion head buttons. Love the matching border that runs around the collar and the cuffs and finishes off the pockets.

The fabric is signed throughout. Unlined with light shoulder pads. Labelled "Leonard Paris" and "Max Dietl" (a high-end fashion boutique in Munich, Germany). Size tag reads a French size 44.

Looks perfect with a pair of sleek slim or slightly flared black trousers!

Condition

This jacket is in excellent condition. Appears unworn.

Size & Fit

Shoulders: 45 cm – 17.72" (seam to seam)

Bust: 100 cm – 39.37" (under the arms from side seam to side seam)

Waist: 86 cm – 33.86"

Hips: 112 cm – 44.09"

Sleeve length: 57 cm – 22.44" (measured from shoulder seam)

Length: 77 cm – 30.31" from neck to hem

Measurements for bust, waist and hips are taken flat across from side seam to side seam and then DOUBLED.  

Approximate Modern Size: L

Exceptionally beautiful Moschino Couture Spring/Summer 1989 "I Love Venice" appliquéd and braided striped jacket from Franco Moschino's "Cruise me Baby" collection.

Description 

Early Moschino pieces designed by Franco Moschino himself – often referred to as Italian fashion's "enfant terrible" – within the short period when he launched the House of Moschino in 1983 until he passed away in 1994 are sought after and highly collectible.

This treasure, like several others that are already available in my shop and more to be listed gradually, comes direct from a German socialite and fashion collector so has not been on the market prior to this.

The stunning Spring/Summer 1989 Moschino Couture jacket is part of Franco Moschino's coveted "Cruise me Baby" collection and a wearable collectors item that will only increase in value.

Franco Moschino once said in a 1994 interview with British GQ: “Funny clothes have to be extremely well made because that is where you find the chic." This design is a perfect example of his outstanding skills.

The spectacular jacket, inside and out, is a love letter to the city of Venice. When designing this jacket Franco Moschino obviously had the typical Venetian gondolier's dress code in mind – a red/white or blue/white striped T-shirt. It captures the fun vibe that Moschino has always represented as a brand. 

The cropped design features a slightly fitted bodice which is horizontally red/white-striped at front and appliquéd with two black stylized gondola prows, a symbol of Venice, that are not just ornamental but have a hidden meaning. To name just one, the metal lines correspond to the number of the Sestieri (districts) of Venice. Accentuated with gold braiding, the jacket closes with a row of spherical gold metal buttons at center front. The back is monochrome red.

The elbow-length sleeves are diagonally Venice-blue/white-striped and showcase wide red gold braided cuffs that are embellished with the winged lion – THE symbol of the Serenissima – holding a book below its paw with the sentence "I ♡ VENICE" written in it. 

I love that the lining is as beautiful as the outside of the jacket! It features colourful scenes of St. Mark's Square – the Doge's Palace, the Campanile, the two large granite columns, one surmounted by the iconic bronze winged lion sculpture and the other one by St. Theodore of Amasea. How luxurious is that?

The matching Moschino Venice motif shoulder bag with striped straps that you see on picture 2 and the image after the label shot is available too. Please enquire for pictures and details.

Labeled "Moschino Couture! Cruise me Baby Made in Italy" and tagged a vintage IT 44, D 40, F 40, GB 12, USA 10. Comes with one spare button.

Condition

This jacket is in excellent condition. Appears unworn.

Size & Fit

Shoulders: 43 cm – 16.93" (seam to seam)

Bust: 92 cm – 36.22" (under the arms from side seam to side seam)

Waist: 80 cm – 31.5"

Sleeve length: 36 cm – 14.17" (measured from shoulder seam)

Length: 49,5 cm – 19.49"

Measurements are taken flat and then DOUBLED for bust and waist.

Approximate Modern Size: S-M

Reference Photos: Elisabeth Gerhold, Owner of Oh! Jackie.

Iconic Autumn/Winter 1991-1992 Moschino Cheap and Chic black "Faucet Handle" tuxedo-style evening jacket.

Description

Early Moschino pieces designed by Franco Moschino himself – often referred to as Italian fashion's "enfant terrible" – within the short period when he launched the House of Moschino in 1983 until he passed away in 1994 are very sought after. This treasure, like several others – some already available on my storefront, some will be listed gradually –, comes direct from a German socialite and fashion collector so has not been on the market prior to this.

The iconic Autumn/Winter 1991-1992 Moschino Cheap and Chic black tuxedo-style evening jacket and its eye-catching golden faucet handles on the front and the sleeves is a true conversation piece which captures the fun vibe that Moschino has always represented as a brand.

Actually it is so iconic that Jeremy Scott seized the whimsical "faucet handle idea" from the 1990s for Moschino's Autumn/Winter 2022 collection. See his creations after the label shot.

The faucet handles are marked "C" (Chaud = Hot) and "F" (Froid = Cold) and "Cheap & Chic". The jacket is made from 100% wool and features a double breasted style with satin lapels, light shoulder pads, front satin flap pockets and an inside button and snap button closure. It is fully lined in a black "Cheap & Chic by Moschino" signed silky rayon and labeled "Moschino Cheap & Chic Made in Italy". Tagged a vintage I 44, D 40, F 40, GB 12, USA 10. Runs smaller. Comes with two spare faucet knobs.

Condition

This jacket is in excellent vintage condition. Appears unworn.

Size & Fit

Shoulders: 44 cm – 17.32" (seam to seam)

Bust: 98 cm – 38.58" (under the arms from side seam to side seam)

Waist: 80 cm – 31.5"

Sleeve length: 60 cm – 23.6" (measured from shoulder seam)

Length: 64 cm – 25.2" (from neck to hem)

Measurements for bust and waist are taken flat across from side seam to side seam and then DOUBLED.

Modern Sizing Equivalent: S-M

Reference Photos: A/W 2022 Moschino Runway courtesy of Vogue Runway

Extraordinary A/W 1985-1986 Jean Paul Gaultier runway emerald quilted coat. 

Description

This is one of Jean Paul Gaultier's rare and runway presented quilted satin coats from his A/W 1985-1986 collection.

I am happy to have found documentation of different-coloured twins of this design walking the runway of that year. Please see the reference photos.

The very elegant long coat features a flared cut and wide lapels. It is meant to be worn oversized. Fully padded with a beautiful organic shaped quilting. Love that the reverse of the lapels and the inside of the sleeves' cuffs is quilted into squares. The long loose sleeves can be worn either turned-down or turned-up showing that differing quilting.

Two patch pockets. The design has no closure and is fully lined in a black silky satin with tonal tiny dots. Labelled "Jean Paul Gaultier pour Gibo' Made in Italy" and tagged a French vintage size 42. Due to its cut and open front it will fit a variety of sizes. Extremely well-made, this coat is a collectible and wearable piece of fashion history!

The coat belonged to one of my couture clients from Munich, Germany, and has not been on the market prior to this.

Condition

This coat is in excellent vintage condition.

Size & Fit

Bust: 136 cm – 53.54"

Lapels width: 24,5 cm – 9.65"

Sleeve length: 53 cm – 20.87"

Length: 143 cm – 56.3"

All measurements are taken flat. Bust measurement across from side seam to side seam and then DOUBLED.

Modern Sizing Equivalent:

Up to L

Reference Photos: Picture 1 to 4: Jean Paul Gaultier runway pictures from the designer's A/W 1985-1986 collection.

Picture 5: Jean Paul Gaultier 1985 ensemble designed for a dance piece called 'Le Défilé' and made of the same fabric as our coat.

Charming Yves Saint Laurent smock style velvet coat from the early 1980s.

Description

This wonderful Yves Saint Laurent coat is made from plush chocolate brown velvet. The design is meant to be worn loose and has a bit of an artist's smock. It features the characteristic smock style yoke front and back with dropped shoulders, long light puff sleeves with buttoned cuffs and two large hip slit pockets whose shape is top stitched on the outside (see picture 6). The coat closes at the center front with buttons and is fully lined in lighter brown rayon. It is labeled "Saint Laurent rive gauche" and marked a French vintage size 38. The generous cut will allow it to be worn by a variety of sizes.

Perfect to add a little vintage bohemian feeling to your wardrobe!

The coat has the added provenance of coming directly from a lady that worked for the Yves Saint Laurent shop in Munich, Germany, so has not been on the market prior to this.

Condition

This coat is in excellent vintage condition.

Size & Fit

Shoulders: 49 cm – 19.3"

Bust: 112 cm – 44.1"

Waist: 140 cm – 55.1"

Hips: 146 cm – 57.3"

Sleeve length: 54 cm – 21.3" (measured from dropped shoulder seam to cuff)

Length: 98 cm – 38.6"

Measurements are taken flat across from side seam to side seam and then DOUBLED for bust, waist and hips.

Corresponding Modern Size:

up to M

Reference Photo: Yves Saint Laurent A/W 1981 Runway Collection

Highly collectible decorated silk chiffon bomber jacket by Moschino Couture from Franco Moschino's Spring/Summer 1991 collection.

Description

Early Moschino pieces designed by Franco Moschino himself – often referred to as Italian fashion's "enfant terrible" – within the short period when he launched the House of Moschino in 1983 until he passed away in 1994 are sought after and highly collectible. This treasure, like several others that will be listed gradually comes direct from a German socialite and fashion collector so has not been on the market prior to this.

This exceptional and rare Spring/Summer 1991 Moschino Couture bomber jacket looks like a couture studio to go and captures the fun vibe that Moschino has always represented as a brand.

The black silk chiffon bomber jacket is elaborately decorated with pieces of silk chiffon, measuring tapes, zip fasteners and satin bows of various vibrant colours. It features a black ribbed collar, a central front two-way zip fastening that runs around the neckline with a black silk tassel at the slider, long sleeves with black ribbed cuffs and a black ribbed hem. The jacket has two working black silk satin side flap pockets that close with press buttons and is completely lined in black silk chiffon. It is labeled "Moschino Couture! Made in Italy" and tagged a vintage IT 40, D 36, GB 8, USA 6.

Condition

This jacket is in excellent condition. Appears unworn.

Size & Fit

Shoulders: approx. 50 cm – 19.7"

Bust: approx. 98 cm – 38.6"

Waist: approx. 90 cm – 35.4"

Sleeve length: 57 cm – 22.4"

Length: 55 cm – 21.7"

Measurements are taken flat and then doubled for bust and waist.

Approximate Modern Size:

Up to M

Reference Photo: Model wearing this jacket at the Moschino Spring/Summer 1991 runway show.

Important documented S/S 1991 Issey Miyake runway 'Dinosaur' sleeves silk jacket.

Description

This is one of Issey Miyake's iconic and rare runway presented 'Dinosaur' silk jackets from his Spring/Summer 1991 collection.

The twin of this jacket walked the runway in several colours and fabrics. Versions of it are part of various fashion museums worldwide such as The Costume Institute of The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City and the Powerhouse Collection of the MAAS Museum in Sydney. The linen model was photographed by renowned fashion photographer Irving Penn and is shown in the book "Irving Penn regards the work of Issey Miyake" published by Bulfinch. Please see the reference pictures and the video sequence of the S/S 1991 fashion show below.

Designed under the eye of Issey Miyake himself this stunning black silk jacket features a simple yet complex cut based on origami Japanese folding techniques. Both front and back are expertly pleated. Yet the star of this design are the long sleeves that are folded and pressed in such a way to create a zig zag line along the top of the sleeve which is reminiscent of a dinosaur's jagged back.

The use of silk gazar is the perfect choice for this garment as the fabric combines qualities of delicacy with a gentle stiffness which is required to maintain the folded fabric form. The jacket is unlined and buttons up the center front. Labelled "Issey Miyake" and tagged a Japanese vintage size M.

The jacket was purchased in 1991 by my couture client in Munich, Germany, and has not been on the market prior to this.

Condition

This jacket is in excellent vintage condition.

Size & Fit

Bust: 104 cm – 40.94"

Waist: 82 cm – 32.28"

Length: 53 cm – 20.87"

Measurements for bust and waist are taken flat across from side seam to side seam and then DOUBLED.

Modern Sizing Equivalent: S-M

Reference Photos: 1-5: S/S 1991 Issey Miyake runway shots / 6: Irving Penn for the book "Irving Penn regards the work of Issey Miyake", Bulfinch.

Stunning Moschino Couture documented Spring/Summer 1992 "I Love Venice" lion appliquéd jacket from Franco Moschino's "Cruise me Baby" collection.

Description 

Early Moschino pieces designed by Franco Moschino himself – often referred to as Italian fashion's "enfant terrible" – within the short period when he launched the House of Moschino in 1983 until he passed away in 1994 are sought after and highly collectible.

This treasure, like several others that are already available in my shop and more to be listed gradually, comes direct from a German socialite and fashion collector so has not been on the market prior to this.

The outstanding Moschino Couture jacket from S/S 1992 is part of Franco Moschino's coveted "Cruise me Baby" collection and a wearable collectors piece that will only increase in value.

Franco Moschino once said in a 1994 interview with British GQ: “Funny clothes have to be extremely well made because that is where you find the chic." This design is a perfect example of his outstanding skills.

I am delighted to have found documentation of the jacket with a photo of a "Tribute to Venice" window display from February 1992 in the book about Moschino "X Anni di Kaos! 1983 1993". See the last picture. 

The spectacular jacket, inside and out, is a love letter to the city of Venice. It features colourful scenes of St. Mark's Square – the Doge's Palace, the Campanile, the two large granite columns, one surmounted by the iconic bronze winged lion sculpture and the other one by St. Theodore of Amasea – printed on the sleeves and the entire lining. How luxurious is that?

The winged lion – the symbol of Venice – is worked through the whole piece. Appliquéd on both cuffs and prominently across the back of the jacket holding a book below its paw with the sentence "I ♡ VENICE" written in it. Below it a paper cut-esque silhouette of the city.

On the front of the jacket you find two stylized gondola prows, another symbol of the Serenissima, that are not just ornamental but have a hidden meaning. To name just one, the metal lines correspond to the number of the Sestieri (districts) of Venice.

The cropped open front design has a boxy silhouette, long sleeves and is accentuated with gold braiding. Sleeves and lining are done in a high-quality colourful printed silk twill, bodice in a cream acetate and rayon blend. I love the play of textures!

Labeled "Moschino Couture! Cruise me Baby Made in Italy" and tagged a vintage IT 44, D 40, GB 12, USA 10.

Condition

This jacket is in excellent vintage condition. One yellowish spot at the back of the left sleeve cuff (see the picture before the label).

Size & Fit

Shoulders: 42 cm – 16.54" (seam to seam)

Bust: 96 cm – 37.8" (under the arms from side seam to side seam)

Sleeve length: 60 cm – 23.62" (measured from shoulder seam)

Length: 43 cm – 16.93" (from neck to hem)

Bust measurement is taken flat across from side seam to side seam and then DOUBLED.

Modern Sizing Equivalent: S-M

Reference Photo: Moschino Venice-inspired window display, February 1992, "X Anni di Kaos! 1983 1993".

Iconic Moschino Couture "Survival Jacket" from Franco Moschino's Repetita Juvant S/S 1994 anniversary collection.

Description

Early Moschino pieces designed by Franco Moschino himself – often referred to as Italian fashion's "enfant terrible" – within the short period when he launched the House of Moschino in 1983 until he passed away in 1994 are sought after and highly collectible.

This treasure, like several others that are already available in my shop and more to be listed gradually, comes direct from a German socialite and fashion collector so has not been on the market prior to this.

This is an important and rare vintage Moschino Couture "SURVIVAL JACKET" with all original tools present and in excellent vintage condition. Usually these jackets are missing many or most of the original tools, but fortunately, this one has all of them. Held by various fashion museums worldwide, it is a piece of fashion history that will only increase in value.

The jacket was designed for the S/S 1994 Repetita Juvant anniversary collection that included some of Franco Moschino's most important couture pieces. It is so iconic that Jeremy Scott presents a slightly overworked re-edition of it as part of the current Autumn/Winter 2021 Moschino runway collection (see the last photo).

"Made from khaki twill, a fabric associated with military uniforms or safari gear, it features a host of clever pockets packed with the tools necessary for life in the rough and tumble urban jungle: mirror, lipstick, mascara, blush, powder compact, nail polish, hairbrush, comb, toothbrush, nail file, and cuticle snippers. Of course, there's also room for what might be the most important items of all: a wallet and credit cards. And just in case the joke isn't clear, "Survival Jacket" is printed on the back in stencil-style lettering. Though clearly mocking those deep in the fashion trenches, the Survival Jacket is just humorous enough to diffuse what would otherwise be a sharp critique of the fashion system." – Courtesy of the FIDM Museum

The design captures the fun vibe that Moschino has always represented as a brand. Franco Moschino once said in a 1994 interview with British GQ: “Funny clothes have to be extremely well made because that is where you find the chic." This jacket is a perfect example of his outstanding skills.

The waisted design is made from a khaki high quality cotton and closes with three gold metal press buttons. Lined in a matching khaki silky acetate and rayon mix. Every single original tool is present: powder brush, nail file, cuticle snippers, tweezers, lipstick, brow brush, eye pencil, mascara, hairbrush, comb, toothbrush, MOSCHINO eau de toilette miniature with matching box, nail polish, double-sided pocket mirror with a lobster-claw chain, compact and leather card sleeve.

Labeled "Moschino Couture! Repetita Juvant Made in Italy" and tagged a vintage IT 42, D 38, GB 10, USA 8. It comes with its original Moschino Couture hanger as seen on the label picture.

Please note: The colour is a bit more olive than how it photoed and better in person. It is very near to picture 10.

Condition

This jacket is in excellent vintage condition.

Size & Fit

Shoulders: 43 cm – 16.92" (seam to seam)

Bust: 92 cm – 36.22" (under the arms from side seam to side seam)

Waist: 82 cm – 32.28"

Sleeve length: 59 cm – 23.22" (measured from shoulder seam)

Length: 56 cm – 22.04" from neck to hem

Measurements for bust and waist are taken flat across from side seam to side seam and then DOUBLED.

Modern Sizing Equivalent: S–M

Reference Pictures: 1 & 2: Moschino S/S 1991 Runway / 3: Moschino A/W 2021 Safari Essential Kit Jacket

Charming bow decorated blazer by Moschino from the early 1990s.

Description

Early Moschino pieces designed by Franco Moschino himself – often referred to as Italian fashion's "enfant terrible" – within the short period when he launched the House of Moschino in 1983 until he passed away in 1994 are very sought after. This treasure, like several others that will be listed gradually comes direct from a German socialite and fashion collector so has not been on the market prior to this.

The enchanting jacket is made from light black wool and decorated with four lovely ivory bows at the front. It captures the fun and charm vibe that Moschino has always represented as a brand.

The blazer features a double breasted style with lapels, light shoulder pads, front flap pockets and an inside button and snap button closure. It is fully lined in black rayon with a huge "Cheap & Chic by Moschino" label imprinted. Tagged a vintage IT 42, D 38, GB 10, USA 8.

PLEASE NOTE: The colour of the bows is more beige in person (like on photo 8) and has photoed more of an off-white tone.

Condition

This blazer is in excellent condition. Appears unworn.

Size & Fit

Shoulders: 43 cm – 16.9" (seam to seam)

Bust: 92 cm – 36.2" (under the arms from side seam to side seam)

Waist: 79 cm – 31.1"

Sleeve length: 59 cm – 23.2" (measured from shoulder seam)

Length: 62 cm – 24.2" (from neck to hem)

Measurements are taken flat and then doubled for bust and waist.

Approximate Modern Size: S-M

Ultra-rare and fantastic Fall 1989 Azzedine Alaïa runway velvet knit jacket with oversized shawl collar.

Description

"The eighties belonged to Alaïa," blared The Independent in 1994, 14 years after the Paris-based Tunisian "burst" onto the scene with his first tough-chic ready-to-wear collection.

Azzedine Alaïa created these extravagant pieces for his Fall 1989 collection that were made of an innovative very soft and thick velvet knit that is about an inch thick and would become iconic later on. Incredibly comfortable to wear and warm!

Here we have a documented jacket from that Alaïa collection whose twin walked the runway as Look 56 styled with one of the designer's form-fitting knit dresses (please see pictures 10 and 11).

The completely unstructured ink-black velvet knit design features a cropped length to rear, long sleeves and an oversized shawl collar that can be used as a short hood. The open front is uniquely designed with elongated panels that can be styled a million ways. It seems quite heavy when you pick it up but feels surprisingly light once you have it on. The jacket is unlined and meant to be worn oversized. The cut will fit a variety of sizes. Tagged "ALAÏA PARIS MADE IN ITALY".

A wearable and collectible piece of fashion design!

Condition

This jacket is in mint condition.

Approximate Modern Size: S-L

Reference Photos: Look 56 of Azzedine Alaïa's Fall 1989 Runway Show featuring the twin of our jacket.

Spectacular A/W 1990-1991 Moschino Couture red wool needle motif and oversized buttons jacket and skirt suit.

Description

Early Moschino pieces designed by Franco Moschino himself – often referred to as Italian fashion's "enfant terrible" – within the short period when he launched the House of Moschino in 1983 until he passed away in 1994 are very sought after. This treasure, like several others that will be listed gradually comes direct from a German socialite and fashion collector so has not been on the market prior to this.

This is an exceptional red wool jacket and skirt ensemble from Franco Moschino's A/W 1990-1991 Couture Collection that plays literally with the couture and – more specifically – sewing theme. It puts you instantly into good humor capturing the fun and charm vibe that Moschino has always represented as a brand and that collectors love.

I am happy to have found documentation of the black sister jacket. Please inquiry for a runway video sequence of that time.

The collarless cropped boxy cut jacket features a black thread trim, exaggerated black embroidered button holes and oversized MOSCHINO COUTURE marked buttons on the front. The back shows an oversized gold embroidered threaded needle that has a question mark detail at the top. The design has an open front with no closure, lightly padded shoulders and long sleeves.

The matching short high waisted pencil skirt has the black trim along the hem as well as black thread button holes and large buttons. It features a traditional high rise with a waistband and a concealed zip and button fastening at the left side.

Both pieces are made from light pure wool and are fully lined in silky cherry-red rayon. The jacket's label reads "MOSCHINO COUTURE!" and features the iconic golden heart. Tagged a vintage IT 42, D 38, GB 10, USA 8. The skirt's label has been cut off.

Condition

This suit is in excellent vintage condition with two nips out of the fabric near the skirt's seam and one pulled thread at the skirt's back from storage. See the reference close-up photos. Both are barely noticeable and mentioned for accuracy only. Worn once only.

Size & Fit

Jacket

Shoulders: 43 cm – 16.9" (seam to seam)

Bust: 98 cm – 38.58" (under the arms from side seam to side seam)

Waist: 84 cm – 33.07"

Sleeve length: 59 cm – 23.2" (measured from shoulder seam)

Length: 46 cm – 18.11" (from neck to hem)

Skirt

Waist: 66 cm – 26"

Hips: 92 cm – 36.2"

Length: 48 cm – 19"

Measurements are taken flat across from side seam to side seam and then DOUBLED for bust, waist and hips.

Approximate Modern Size: S

Reference photos: Elisabeth, Owner of Oh! Jackie.

Important and ultra-rare Yves Saint Laurent Fourrures Autumn-Winter 1976/77 Russian Collection Broadtail Fur & Mink Trim Coat

Description

Yves Saint Laurent was one of the first designers to pay homage to Russia and its traditional garments. His iconic and opulent Autumn-Winter 1976/1977 "Opéras – Ballets Russes" or so called "Russian Collection" included peasant ensembles and various Cossack-style coats made of luxurious textiles such as fur, chiffon, silk, velvet, and gold lamé. Laurent himself regarded this collection as one of his finest: “I don't know if this is my best collection. But it is my most beautiful collection.”

This Yves Saint Laurent Fourrures labeled coat is a well documented piece of fashion history and, as a key look of this collection, highly collectible. An investment piece that will continue to increase in value. Versions of it are part of The Met Museum and The Museum at FIT. See reference photos.

The breathtaking design is pure Yves Saint Laurent from that time and made from a high-quality genuine glossy broadtail fur in delicious shades of brown, from cinnamon to chocolate. The dark brown mink fur trim throughout including a half belt at the back emphasizes the beautiful lines and gives it that Anna Karenina vibe.

The bodice has a high neckline and long sleeves with mink fur trimmed cuffs. I love how the lower part of the coat is set into the waist seam with slight gathers along the top that flare out below the waist in a swing style. An extremely figure flattering cut! The coat closes at the center front with four beautiful and eye-catching tassel decorated dark brown Brandenburgs or passementerie frog closures and is fully lined in a matching rayon.

Condition

This coat is in excellent condition. Perhaps the slightest wear to the end of the tassels. Appears to have been worn very little if at all.

Size & Fit

Shoulders: 42 cm – 16.53"

Bust: 96 cm – 37.79"

Waist: 96 cm – 37.79"

Hips: open

Sleeve length: 66 cm – 25.98"

Length: 133 cm – 52.36" (from neck to hem)

Measurements are taken flat across from side seam to side seam and then DOUBLED for bust, waist and hips.

Corresponding Modern Size: M

Reference Photos: Russian Collection Coat at Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris / Mariacarla Boscono for the Yves Saint Laurent Retrospective Show in 2002 wearing a Cossack-style coat from 1976 / Mink fur coat from The Met Museum / Vogue Editorial, December 1976

Outstanding documented Moschino puffer jacket from Franco Moschino's first Cheap & Chic collection, Autumn/Winter 1988-89.

Description

Early Moschino pieces designed by Franco Moschino himself – often referred to as Italian fashion's "enfant terrible" – within the short period when he launched the House of Moschino in 1983 until he passed away in 1994 are very sought after. This treasure, like several others that will be listed gradually comes direct from a German socialite and fashion collector so has not been on the market prior to this.

I am pleased to have found documentation of this wonderful puffer jacket. Please see the picture after the label shot.

The short off-white padded jacket is an ultra-rare and hard to find, if ever, piece from Franco Moschino's first Cheap & Chic collection from Autumn/Winter 1988-89. With its imprinted laurel wreath and the lettering "Autunno-Inverno (Autumn-Winter) 1988-89 Collezione (Collection) N° 1 Cheap & Chic" on the back it captures the fun vibe that Moschino has always represented as a brand. Highly collectible!

The straight cut jacket features a standing collar – which conceals a zip-out hood repeating the back's print, four false buttoned flap pockets at the front, a front zip and button closure and a drawstring hem. Lovely gold tone metal buttons designed with the signature Moschino heart surrounded by the laurel wreath and signed Cheap & Chic give that certain something. The jacket is labeled "Cheap & Chic by Moschino" and tagged a vintage IT 44, D 40, GB 12, USA 10.

Condition

This jacket is in excellent vintage condition. One small yellowish spot at the bottom of the right sleeve near the cuff.

Size & Fit

Shoulders: 48 cm – 18.9" (seam to seam)

Bust: 104 cm – 40.9" (under the arms from side seam to side seam)

Waist: 102 cm – 40.2"

Sleeve length: 57 cm – 22.4" (measured from shoulder seam)

Length: 51 cm – 20.1" (from neck to hem)

Measurements are taken flat and then DOUBLED for bust and waist.

Approximate Modern Size: S-M

Extraordinary faux Persian lamb fur jacket with velvet trim by Yves Saint Laurent probably from Fall 1992.

Description

Unusual and rare vintage Yves Saint Laurent charcoal grey faux fur Persian lamb or Astrakhan coat with black velvet collar, cuffs and edging probably from his Fall 1992 ready-to-wear collection. This short coat or oversized jacket features a straight and easy cut that falls below the hip, long full sleeves that are beautifully gathered at the sleeve cap and side slit pockets. It has a buttoned front and is fully lined in black acetate. This coat has the added provenance of coming directly from a lady that worked for the YSL shop in Munich so has not been on the market prior to this. It is labeled “Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, Paris, Made in France“ and marked a French vintage size 40.

Designer

Yves Saint Laurent was born in 1936 in Oran, Algeria and began his career as an assistant of Christian Dior. When Dior died in 1957, he became the artistic director. In 1962 he opened his own fashion house, and in 1966, he created his ready-to-wear line Rive Gauche. By the 1980s, Yves Saint Laurent was a true icon. He was the first living designer to receive a solo exhibition in New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art in 1983. He died in 2008.

Condition

This coat is in excellent vintage condition. Seems to have been worn very little.

Size & Fit

Shoulders: 43 cm – 17"

Bust: 110 cm – 43.3"

Waist: 118 cm – 46.5"

Hips: 128 cm – 50.4"

Sleeve length: 62 cm – 24.4"

Length: 75 cm – 29.5"

Measurements are taken flat and then doubled for bust, waist and hips.

Approximate Modern Size: S-M

Wonderful easy-to-style rose bengal wool cape by Yves Saint Laurent from the 1980s.

Description

Yves Saint Laurent did capes starting in the 1970s in all styles. They became a staple of the designer's collections and the vintage versions are much sought after among fashion lovers and collectors worldwide.

Here we have a wonderful sleek pure wool cape by Yves Saint Laurent from the 1980s. I love the rose bengal hue partly because pink was Yves Saint Laurent's favourite colour after black. I am delighted to have found a photo of an Yves Saint Laurent haute couture wool cape in the same colour from A/W 1989-1990 (see the picture after the label shot).

Note that the colour in person is most near to the one on the pictures with the mannequin. 

The design is from the 'Variation' line which was a second ready-to-wear line – after 'Rive Gauche' – that was created in 1982 and existed for a short period during the 1980s and 1990s only.

The eye-catching and versatile cape is made in France from pure wool and cut very simple, the back is one large panel and then there are two panels that fall across the shoulder and down the front. Beautiful double seam detailing along the border and rounded edges.

No closure and unlined. Labelled 'Yves Saint Laurent Variation' and made in France. Marked a French size 34 but will fit a variety of sizes as to the undefined shoulder seams and the open design. You just drape it over your shoulders and it falls into place.

Condition

This cape is in excellent vintage condition. Appears to have been worn very little. One small nip on the very top of the fabric near the right shoulder.

Size & Fit

 "Bust": ca. 90 cm – 35.43" (laid flat and closed)

Length: 99 cm – 38.98"

"Sleeve" length: 63 cm – 24.80"

Will fit up to a size M

Reference Photos: Various Yves Saint Laurent capes during the 1970s and 1980s. / Elisabeth, owner of Oh! Jackie.

Show-stopping 1980s Yves Saint Laurent Fourrures grey blue dyed vintage mink fur coat.

Description

This stunning fur comes direct from a very fashionable German client and therefore has not been on the market prior to this.

The incredible 1980s design is in exceptional condition and appears to have been worn very little if at all. It is a rare and wonderful vintage fur from an important couturier. An equivalent fur coat by Saint Laurent purchased now would cost upwards of 20,000 euros and would not be one of a kind like this one. Truly a treasure and exquisitely beautiful in person.

The coat is made in France from supple, soft and shiny Saga mink fur and dyed in a wonderful grey blue colour that I absolutely love!

It is from Yves Saint Laurent's 'Fourrures' label and cut in a slightly oversized swing style with a flared bottom. The coat is pieced together in vertical stripes set extremely close together and features long, wide cut sleeves with a fold-up cuff on each one. The pockets are hidden along a seam on each hip. Fully lined in a black silky rayon. Closes with fur hooks at the front. Tagged a German size 38 and a French size 40. It should work on a variety of sizes.

No matter how amazing it seems in the photos, it is even better in person as the camera cannot capture the way the fur catches the light. Sometimes it appears more grey, sometimes more blue.

Please enquire for a video to get an idea of its suppleness, outstanding colour and perfect condition.

Condition

This coat is in excellent condition. Appears to have been worn very little if at all.

Size & Fit

Shoulders: 48 cm – 18.9"

Bust: 132 cm – 51.97"

Waist: 140 cm – 55.12"

Hips: open

Sleeve length: 63 cm – 24.8"

Sleeve width at the cuffs: 7 cm – 2.76"

Length: 118 cm – 46.46" (from neck to hem)

Measurements are taken flat across from side seam to side seam and then DOUBLED for bust and waist.

Corresponding Modern Size: S-L

Reference Photos: 1980s Yves Saint Laurent Fourrures advertising and c. 1970s Yves Saint Laurent editorial shot.

Museum held early 1990s Moschino Couture "Libertas" and fleur-de-lis appliquéd jacket from Franco Moschino's "Cruise me Baby" collection.

Description

Early Moschino pieces designed by Franco Moschino himself – often referred to as Italian fashion's "enfant terrible" – within the short period when he launched the House of Moschino in 1983 until he passed away in 1994 are sought after and highly collectible.

This treasure, like several others that are already available in my shop and more to be listed gradually, comes direct from a German socialite and fashion collector so has not been on the market prior to this.

The exceptional and rare early 1990s Moschino Couture jacket is part of Franco Moschino's coveted "Cruise Me Baby" collection and a wearable collectors piece that will only increase in value. A twin of it is held by the Philadelphia Museum of Art.

Franco Moschino once said in a 1994 interview with British GQ: “Funny clothes have to be extremely well made because that is where you find the chic." This design is a perfect example of his outstanding skills.

The spectacular open front jacket is a love letter to Italy and dedicated to the city of Florence. It features various heraldic insignia of the Tuscan capital such as the appliquéd fleur-de-lis symbols and the colourway of royal blue, black and white and red. The "LIBERTAS" appliquéd writing on the back is an homage to the P.G. Libertas, which was an Italian association football club from Florence founded in 1912. I love the cream double-layered chiffon ruffles at the cuffs and how all of the edges are finished with gold braiding.

The design is made from a high-quality acetate and rayon blend and is lined in a black and white striped silky acetate and rayon mix. It is labeled "Moschino Couture! Cruise me Baby Made in Italy" and tagged a vintage IT 42, D 38, GB 10, USA 8.

Condition

This jacket is in excellent vintage condition. One fair spot at one cuff on the ruffle (see picture 10).

Size & Fit

Shoulders: 45 cm – 17.72" (seam to seam)

Bust: 96 cm – 37.8" (under the arms from side seam to side seam)

Waist: 82 cm – 32.28"

Hips: 104 cm – 40.94"

Sleeve length: 56 cm – 22.05" (measured from shoulder seam)

Length: 70 cm – 27.56" (from neck to hem)

Measurements for bust, waist and hips are taken flat across from side seam to side seam and then DOUBLED.

Modern Sizing Equivalent: S-M

Outstanding early 1990s Claude Montana white and black linen blend jacket and shorts suit with eye-catching piping detail.

Description

Claude Montana's power women with accentuated shoulders and sculpted silhouettes marked the 1980s and influenced many fashion talents of the next generation. He loved details and often combined sleek architectural simplicity with a strong statement element like the curved piping detail on the back of this jacket.

This fabulous early 1990s summer jacket and shorts suit comes direct from the former owner and has not been on the market prior to this.

It comprises a double-breasted white blazer and high waisted black shorts. The blazer features a contrasting black peaked lapel with low neckline, a nipped waist and long buttoned sleeves. The black curved piping on the back takes centre stage and attracts the whole attention to the waist.

The black high waisted shorts feature a slightly flared silhouette, side pockets and an attached belt that closes on the left side with a silver-toned metal buckle. Center zip closure.

Both pieces are tailored from a linen and viscose blend. The jacket is fully lined in a white cotton and viscose mix fabric. The shorts are unlined. Labeled "Montana Claude Montana Paris Made in Italy" and tagged a vintage size 42 (Italian) and 8 (USA).

Condition

This suit is in excellent vintage condition. According to the former owner it was never worn. Some minor marks on the jacket from storage that might come out with additional cleaning. Light patina to the belt buckle of the shorts.

Size & Fit

Jacket

Shoulders: 41,5 cm – 16.33" (measured from shoulder seam to shoulder seam)

Bust: 90 cm – 35.43" (measured under the arms across)

Waist: 78 cm – 30.70"

Hips: 96 cm – 37.79"

Sleeve Length: 57 cm – 22.44"

Length: 70 cm – 27.55" (measured from shoulder to hem at the front)

Shorts

Waist: 73 cm – 28.74"

Hips: 99 cm – 38.97"

Length: 39 cm – 15.35"

Measurements are taken flat across from side seam to side seam and then DOUBLED for bust, waist and hips.

Approximate Modern Size: S

Reference Photo: Claude Montana Spring/Summer 1988 Runway.

Eye-catching early 1990s Moschino "MANI PULITE" embroidered and hands appliquéd vest or waistcoat.

Description

Early Moschino pieces designed by Franco Moschino himself – often referred to as Italian fashion's "enfant terrible" – within the short period when he launched the House of Moschino in 1983 until he passed away in 1994 are sought after and highly collectible.

This exceptional and rare early 1990s Moschino Cheap and Chic vest plays with the Italian idiomatic phrase of having a clean slate and captures the fun vibe that Moschino has always represented as a brand.

The whimsical vest features two appliquéd hands at the front designed in the Italian tricolour (green, white and red), a gold-tone "MANI PULITE" (literally translated: clean hands) embroidery below the hands and a black and white striped back.

The front is made from a high-quality ivory cotton with a subtle sheen to it. The back comes in a black and white striped rayon and has an adjustable belt that cinches the waist. The vest has short side vents and closes at the center front with six amazing gold-tone metal buttons embossed with a charming figurine. Fully lined and labeled "Moschino Cheap and Chic Made in Italy" and tagged an Italian/Spanish men's size 50 (GB/USA 40). Comes with a spare button.

Condition

This vest is in excellent vintage condition.

Size & Fit

Chest: 105 cm – 41.33"

Waist: 95 cm – 37.4"

Length: 54-64,5 cm – 21.25"-25.39"

Measurements are taken flat and then doubled for chest and waist.

Approximate Modern Size: M

Well documented collectible Azzedine ALAÏA Fall-Winter 1984-1985 knit cardigan with huge shawl collar.

Description

In 1984, at the Oscars de la Mode in Paris, Azzedine Alaïa won the award for the Best Designer of the Year and the Best French Collection. In the same year the twin of this cardigan walked the runway for the presentation of the Fall 1984 collection and was worn by super model Yasmin Le Bon for an editorial shot by Peter Lindbergh in Paris. The design became so iconic that Maison Alaïa re-issued the cardigan from the archives as the "Alaïa Edition 1985 Shawl Collar Jacket" for its Fall/Winter 2018 collection.

This rare and highly collectible cardigan from the original Fall-Winter 1984-85 collection features a full cropped cut with a nipped-in waist and an exaggerated shawl collar that can be worn as a short hood. The long batwing sleeves end in slightly tighter cuffs. Two flat pockets at the front and light shoulder pads. The design is made from densely knitted ribbed boiled wool and alpaca in a neutral ivory-white and closes with three metal buttons. Meant to be worn huge and oversized. Tagged a vintage Alaïa "M" but the oversized cut will make it fit a variety of sizes. A truly fantastic and museum worthy piece!

Condition

This cardigan is in excellent, museum quality condition.

Size & Fit

Shoulders: 53 cm – 20.86“ (dropped; approx.)

Bust: 142 cm – 55.90" (approx.)

Waist: 78 cm – 30.70“ (approx.)

Sleeve Length: 53 cm – 20.86“

Length: 49 cm – 19.29“

Bust and waist measurements are taken flat across from side seam to side seam and then DOUBLED.

Modern Sizing Equivalent:

S up to L

Reference Photos: Yasmin Le Bon wearing the twin of this cardigan for The New York Times Magazine, "Paris Panache" editorial shot by Peter Lindbergh, Paris, 1985. / Model wearing a twin cardigan for a Marie Claire editorial shot, 1985. / Marie Claire, August 2018 editorial featuring the re-issue. Please send us a note if you would like to see a reference video sequence from the Fall/Winter 1985-86 runway show.

Pretty cream-white and midnight blue floral print jacket with red lining by Moschino Cheap and Chic from the late 1980s or early 1990s.

Description

Early Moschino pieces designed by Franco Moschino himself – often referred to as Italian fashion's "enfant terrible" – within the short period when he launched the House of Moschino in 1983 until he passed away in 1994 are very sought after. This treasure, like several others – some already available on my storefront, some will be listed gradually –, comes direct from a German socialite and fashion collector so has not been on the market prior to this.

This eye-catching Moschino Cheap and Chic jacket is from one of Franco Moschino's spring/summer collections dating to the late 1980s/early 1990s and captures the fun vibe that Moschino has always represented as a brand.  

The tailored design features a cutout-esque floral print of what seem to be cornflowers and tulips in night blue on a cream white background.

It is made from a wonderful structured cotton and rayon mix and features a double breasted style with wide lapels, light shoulder pads and front flap pockets. The jacket closes with buttons covered in matching fabric. Love the cherry-red "Cheap & Chic by Moschino" signed silky lining that creates a beautiful contrast to the colourway of the exterior fabric. Labeled "Moschino Cheap & Chic Made in Italy". Tagged a vintage I 44, D 40, F 40, GB 12, USA 10. Runs smaller.

Condition 

This jacket is in excellent vintage condition. Actually it appears unworn except for few yellowish spots at the back of both sleeve cuffs (see the picture before the label) that may come out with additional cleaning.

Size & Fit

Shoulders: 43 cm – 16.93" (seam to seam)

Bust: 96 cm – 37.8" (under the arms from side seam to side seam)

Waist: 82 cm – 32.28"

Hips: 108 cm – 42.52"

Sleeve length: 59 cm – 23.23" (measured from shoulder seam)

Length: 61 cm – 24.02" from neck to hem

Measurements for bust, waist and hips are taken flat across from side seam to side seam and then DOUBLED.  

Modern Sizing Equivalent: S-M

Sculpted late 1980s / early 1990s structured black skirt suit with inbuilt white vest by Thierry Mugler.

Description

This is one of Thierry Mugler's iconic sharply tailored skirt suits he is renowned for from the late 1980s / early 1990s. It encapsulates all that is unique in his designs: a fitted jacket with a structured cut, a wasp waist that hugs the hips and curved top stitches that follow the feminine forms, all together creating his signature super woman look.

The two-piece jacket and skirt suit is cut from a black stretch gabardine and accented with a white cotton pique vest. The fitted jacket has a low V-neck with narrow lightly padded shoulders and long sleeves with a slit near the cuff.

Love the contrasting white sewn-in vest creating a highly flattering cut-out effect with particular emphasis to the collar bones. Both vest and jacket close with fabric covered snap buttons at the center front.

The matching high-waisted skirt has an elegant straight cut and ends just above the knee. It closes with a zip, a hook and a snap button at the center back.

Both pieces are fully lined and labeled "Thierry Mugler Paris". Marked a French vintage size 38.

Condition

This skirt suit is in excellent vintage condition. Minor smudge on the vest (see picture 13) that may come out with additional dry cleaning. Only mentioned for accuracy.

Size & Fit

Jacket

Shoulders: 40 cm – 15.7"

Bust: 89 cm – 35"

Waist: 70 cm – 27.6"

Sleeve length: 60 cm – 23.6"

Length: 67,5 cm - 70 cm – 26.6" - 27.6"

Skirt

Waist: 70 cm – 27.6"

Hips: 96 cm – 37.8"

Length: 57 cm – 22.4"

Approximate Modern Size: S

Reference Photos: Claudia Schiffer for Thierry Mugler, A/W 1995. / Vogue US, 1990. "Été Hawaii" Collection, S/S 1990. Photographed by Herb Ritts. / Thierry Mugler Campaign. Circa 1980s/1990s. Photographed by Manfred Thierry Mugler. Location: NYC, Chrysler Building.

Sophisticated long safari-style silk blend vest or dress by Ted Lapidus Paris from the late 1960s/early 1970s.

Description

This is a rare Ted Lapidus Paris late 1960s/early 1970s off-white safari-style maxi vest or dress with four dramatic top set faux flap pockets that work as slit pockets. The fabulous sleeveless design is made of a high quality silk linen mix and features a square neck and a slightly fitted cut with a high overlapping vent running down the center back. Front center zipper closure. Fully lined. Label is missing. Interior is hand finished.

The vest or dress comes direct from a fashionable German client who affirms it to be by Ted Lapidus Paris. It has not been on the market prior to this.

It may be worn in a number of ways and styled to your liking. Easily dress this piece up or down, it is the perfect essential wardrobe piece with a great design.

Condition

This vest or dress is in excellent vintage condition.

Size & Fit

Shoulders: 35,5 cm – 13.97"

Bust: 92 cm – 36.22"

Waist: 84 cm – 33.07"

Hips: 112 cm – 44.09"

Slit Length: 69 cm – 27.16"

Length: 120 cm – 47.24"

Measurements for bust, waist and hips are taken flat across from side seam to side seam and then DOUBLED.

Modern Sizing Equivalent: S-M

Chic circa 1970s black cotton trench coat by YSL Saint Laurent rive gauche.

Description

In 1965 Yves Saint Laurent launched the trench coat as a feminine item stolen from menswear. He made it a recurring element of his ready-to-wear collection. Since then it became a classic wardrobe staple that goes with anything from casual to elegant. Think of Catherine Deneuve in 1967’s "Belle de Jour" in her Yves Saint Laurent black patent version that instantly tied it to a new level of sex appeal. Or Jackie Kennedy who paired it with an evening gown.

This chic and ever-versatile midi-length circa 1970s YSL Saint Laurent Rive Gauche black trench coat works all the timeless features, including a notched collar with a storm shield, two buttoned gun flaps, long raglan sleeves, adjustable belted waist, buckled cuffs, buttoned flap pockets, a vented back and a double-breasted button-front closure. It is crafted from a black mid-weight cotton, fully lined in cotton as well and labeled "SAINT LAURENT rive gauche PARIS, Made in France". The original model and care tag is still present. Comes with spare buttons. Marked a French vintage size 38.

Condition

This coat is in excellent vintage condition. Little wear on the buckles and the edge of the cuffs.

Size & Fit

Coat

Shoulders: 43 cm – 16.9" (raglan)

Bust: 98 cm – 38.6"

Waist: 94 cm – 37"

Hips: 98 cm – 38.6"

Sleeve length: 60 cm – 23.6"

Length: 122 cm – 48"

Belt

Length: 110 cm – 43.3"

Holes from 74 to 93 cm – 29.1" to 36.6"

Measurements are taken flat across from side seam to side seam and then doubled for bust, waist and hips.

Modern Sizing Equivalent: S–M

Reference Photos: Catherine Deneuve in "Belle de Jour", 1967

Jackie Kennedy, 1970s.

Well documented skirt suit by Moschino Couture from Spring/Summer 1989.

Description

Early Moschino pieces designed by Franco Moschino himself – often referred to as Italian fashion's "enfant terrible" – within the short period when he launched the House of Moschino in 1983 until he passed away in 1994 are very sought after. This treasure, like several others that will be listed gradually comes direct from a German socialite and fashion collector so has not been on the market prior to this.

This is an eye-catching skirt suit from Franco Moschino's Spring-Summer 1989 Couture Collection that puts you instantly into good humor. It captures the fun and charm vibe that Moschino has always represented as a brand.

I am happy to have found documentation of it with a Vogue editorial shot from March 1989 (see last picture) and a Fashion Channel Video sequence of the fashion show of that year.

The collarless cropped boxy cut jacket features an eye-catching pattern mix of black polka dots on an off-white backdrop and a vibrant multicolor floral print. The design has an open front with no closure, four real buttoned front patch pockets, shoulder pads and is decorated along both sides of the center front with six fabric covered buttons and four beautiful iridescent rhinestone adorned buttons. The long sleeves show each three of the rhinestone decorated buttons at the cuffs with real buttonholes.

The matching short high waisted pencil skirt features a waistband and two real patch pockets at the front. One closes with one of the fabric covered buttons, the other with one of the rhinestone adorned buttons. It closes with a button and a zip in the center back.

Both pieces are made from light pure wool and are fully lined in a cherry-red rayon/acetate blend. The jacket's label reads "MOSCHINO COUTURE!" and features the iconic golden heart. Tagged a vintage IT 42, D 38, GB 10, USA 8. The skirt's label has been cut off.

Condition

This skirt suit is in excellent vintage condition. Three hardly visible spots that may come out with dry cleaning (see picture 18). Otherwise looks like new.

Size & Fit

Jacket

Shoulders: 43 cm – 16.9" (seam to seam)

Bust: 94 cm – 37" (under the arms from side seam to side seam)

Waist: 85 cm – 33.5"

Sleeve length: 59 cm – 23.2" (measured from shoulder seam)

Length: 48 cm – 18.9" (from neck to hem)

Skirt

Waist: 67 cm – 26.4"

Hips: 92 cm – 36.2"

Length: 53,5 cm – 21.1"

Measurements are taken flat across from side seam to side seam and then DOUBLED for bust, waist and hips.

Approximate Modern Size: S

Reference photo: Editorial shot of Carre Otis wearing the same suit. Photographed by Arthur Elgort for Vogue US, March 1989.

Please send us a note if you would like to see this reference video sequence: Spring/Summer 1989 Moschino Runway Show.

Captivating c. 1992 Moschino Couture trimmed jacket with smiley face faux pearl buttons.

Description

Early Moschino pieces designed by Franco Moschino himself – often referred to as Italian fashion's "enfant terrible" – within the short period when he launched the House of Moschino in 1983 until he passed away in 1994 are very sought after. This treasure, like several others that will be listed gradually comes direct from a German socialite and fashion collector so has not been on the market prior to this.

A one-of-a-kind vintage c. 1992 MOSCHINO COUTURE! pink wool jacket with gold-rimmed faux pearl "smiley face" buttons. This design is part of the collection Franco Moschino did parodying the legendary Chanel jacket by using dramatic trimmings and detailing. It captures the fun and charm vibe that The House of Moschino has always represented as a brand.

The cropped jacket features a boxy silhouette with an open front, no collar, long sleeves, four faux front flap pockets and a black crocheted trim around the collar, down the front and around the pockets, cuffs and hem. The trim around the neckline is partly loose – starting from the shoulder seam to the beginning of the front – creating a trompe l'oeil effect of running around a – non-existent – collar. The icing on the cake are the witty Chanel-esque gold-rimmed faux pearl buttons featuring a smiley face on it. An all-black ensemble will look super chic with this fun design!

The design is fully lined in a pink rayon/acetate blend. The label reads "MOSCHINO COUTURE! Made in Italy". Tagged a vintage IT 44, D 40, GB 12, USA 10. Comes with two spare buttons. Please note that the pink colour is in person most likely as you see it on the last picture.

Condition

This jacket is in excellent vintage condition. Appears unworn. The crocheted trim down the front and around the front hem has been altered by the House of Moschino at the request of the customer. Originally they were loose and hanging down.

Size & Fit

Shoulders: 42 cm – 16.5" 

Bust: 99 cm – 39" (under the arms)

Waist: 94 cm – 37"

Sleeve length: 58 cm – 22.8" (measured from shoulder seam)

Length: 48 cm – 18.9" (from neck to hem)

Measurements are taken flat across from side seam to side seam and then doubled for bust and waist.

Approximate Modern Size: S-M

Reference Photo: 1980s Chanel advertising featuring a similar pink jacket. 

Signature wool and velvet coat by Yves Saint Laurent from the early 1980s.

Description

This is a fabulous mocha brown early 1980s vintage Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche Cossack style coat. The design has a straight cut and is made from what appears to be a soft cashmere blend in a wonderful taupe hue that is a go-to neutral. It features a contrasting black elongated triangle velvet collar, long sleeves with wide double cuffs in black velvet as well, both underlaid and edged in the coat's taupe fabric, and two front slit pockets. The coat closes at the center front with four beautiful black Brandenburgs or passementerie frog closures and is fully lined in a matching rayon. It is labeled "Saint Laurent rive gauche" and marked a French vintage size 40. The generous cut will allow it to be worn by a variety of sizes.

The coat has the added provenance of coming directly from a lady that worked for the Yves Saint Laurent shop in Munich, Germany, so has not been on the market prior to this.

PLEASE NOTE: The colour is a bit less reddish in person then how it photoed here.

Condition

This coat is in very good condition. Just a few small holes on the lining (see picture 12). Not visible when worn.

Size & Fit

Shoulders: 49 cm – 19.3" (dropped)

Bust: 104cm – 40.9"

Waist: 116 cm – 54.7"

Hips: 118 cm – 46.5"

Sleeve length: 56 cm – 22" (measured from dropped shoulder seam to cuff)

Length: 93 cm – 36.6"

Measurements are taken flat across from side seam to side seam and then DOUBLED for bust, waist and hips.

Corresponding Modern Size:

up to M

Reference photo: Newsweek cover featuring Yves Saint Laurent and his creations with a similar coat on the right, 12th of August 1963.

Stunning paisley design sequin and bead silk jacket from the 1990s.

Description

Heavily beaded and sequined multi color paisley design silk evening jacket from the 1990s. "It (paisley) has that flamboyant connotation, it’s a look that says ‘notice me’" – Dennis Nothdruft, Curator at Fashion and Textile Museum, London, UK.

A little excursion on the meaning of the paisley pattern: "From its ancient Persian and Indian origins with its hidden messages and mysterious symbolism, the iconic motif has had quite a journey. Its symbolic power has probably played a part. The original Persian droplet-like motif – the boteh or buta – is thought to have been a representation of a floral spray combined with a cypress tree, a Zoroastrian symbol of life and eternity. The seed-like shape is also thought to represent fertility, has connections with Hinduism, and also bears an intriguing resemblance to the famous yin-yang symbol. It is still a hugely popular motif in Iran and South and Central Asian countries and is woven using silver and gold threads on to silks and fine wools for weddings and other celebrations." – Lindsay Baker for BBC, 6 November 2017.

The jacket features a wonderfully detailed and very decorative design with its oversized paisley motifs framed by one to four rows of golden sequins that are filled with abstract motifs and surrounded by monochrome segments. Amazing color scheme of iridescent and sparkling sequins and beads in shades of azure, red, lilac and green. The design is framed by a row of golden sequins running around the collar, down the front, the sleeves and around the hem. It has a straight cut, closes with five hooks and eyes down the front and is fully lined in what appears to be black rayon. Labeled “Mode Exclusive Mehra München“ (Fashion Exclusive Mehra Munich, Germany" and marked size Large.

Extremely well done. Designed for a loose fit. Can easily be dressed up or down.

Condition

This jacket is in excellent vintage condition. Appears unworn.

Size & Fit

Shoulders: 42 cm –16.5"

Bust: 102 cm – 40.2"

Waist: 96 cm – 37.8"

Sleeve length: 60 cm – 23.6"

Length: 51,5 cm – 20.3"

Measurements are taken flat across from side seam to side seam and then DOUBLED for bust and waist.

Corresponding Modern Size:

up to M

Flirty Moschino Couture corset blazer with lace-up back from the 1990s.

Description

Early Moschino pieces designed by Franco Moschino himself – often referred to as Italian fashion's "enfant terrible" – within the short period when he launched the House of Moschino in 1983 until he passed away in 1994 are very sought after. This treasure, like several others that will be listed gradually comes direct from a German socialite and fashion collector so has not been on the market prior to this.

This insanely fabulous 1990s MOSCHINO COUTURE! black corset style blazer shows a lace-up back and captures the fun and charm vibe that Moschino has always represented as a brand.

The blazer features a fitted boned corset silhouette with molded underwired bra cups incorporated into the design and an eye-catching appliquéd lace-up back. It clings like a second skin highlighting every curve! Additionally there is a black lace trim around the bra cups, down the front and back seams and around the hem. Beautiful black tulle buttons in the form of knots! The design closes with a short hidden zip and four buttons at the center front and is fully lined in a black rayon/acetate blend. The label reads "MOSCHINO COUTURE! Made in Italy". Tagged a vintage IT 42, D 38, GB 10, USA 8. Comes with two spare buttons.

Condition

This blazer is in excellent vintage condition. Appears unworn.

Size & Fit

Shoulders: 38 cm – 15" (seam to seam)

Bust: circa 88 cm – 34.6" (under the arms from side seam to side seam)

Waist: 72 cm – 28.3"

Sleeve length: 61 cm – 24" (measured from shoulder seam)

Length: 65 cm – 25.6" (from neck to hem)

Measurements are taken flat and then doubled for bust and waist.

Approximate Modern Size: S

Reference Photo: Moschino Couture runway shot featuring a sister jacket.

Stunning Aztec design velvet coat by Roberta di Camerino from the 1970s.

Description

This 1970s Roberta di Camerino coat is made from soft ruby-red velvet with a beautiful Aztec print in burnt orange, brown, caramel and vibrant blue. It features a four point collar, darts at the bust, two side seam pockets and flares downwards the waist. The coat closes with four beautifully designed matching velvet covered buttons that blend into the striped border and is fully lined in branded brown acetate. It is labeled "Roberta di Camerino Made in Italy" and finishes a palm below the knee.

A highly collectible and rare piece of fashion history!

Designer

The house of Roberta di Camerino was founded by Giuliana Coen Camerino (1920-2002) in 1945 in Venice, Italy. The company's name is a combination of the name Roberta, taken from Giuliana Camerino's favourite song "Smoke gets in your eyes" and Camerino, her husband's surname. Giuliana Camerino was one of the first designers who created the idea of an easily recognizable status handbag. The neo-baroque style bags were produced of "Soprarizzo" velvet – originally used for furnishings – in the most beautiful and unusual colour combinations and clasps and studs created by the craftsmen of brass ornaments for gondolas. The result were truly revolutionary and unique bags. Already in 1956 Giuliana received the prestigious Neiman Marcus "Oscar of Fashion" Award. Further on the brand diversified its product range starting a clothing line characterized by high quality, simplicity and lightness. Trompe l'oeil prints of belts and buttons became Roberta di Camerino's signature designs. Her creations were loved by celebrities and royals all over the world, such as Grace Kelly, Princess Paola of Liegi, Elsa Maxwell and Isabella Rossellini.

Condition

This coat is in excellent vintage condition. Minimal signs of wear.

Size & Fit

Shoulders: 40 cm – 15.7" (seam to seam)

Bust: 96 cm – 37.8" (including darts)

Waist: 88 cm – 34.6"

Hips: 114 cm – 44.9"

Sleeve length: 59 cm – 23.2"

Length: 110 cm – 43.3"

Measurements are taken flat and then doubled for bust, waist and hips.

Corresponding Modern Size: M-L

Lovely trimmed cropped open front jacket by Moschino from the early 1990s.

Description

Early Moschino pieces designed by Franco Moschino himself – often referred to as Italian fashion's "enfant terrible" – within the short period when he launched the House of Moschino in 1983 until he passed away in 1994 are very sought after. This treasure, like several others that will be listed gradually comes direct from a German socialite and fashion collector so has not been on the market prior to this.

The enchanting flamingo pink cropped Chanel style jacket is edged with a black wool trim and a cream cross-stitched ribbon around the lapels, center front panels, cuffs and flaps of the front faux pockets. It captures the fun and charm vibe that Moschino has always represented as a brand.

The jacket features an open front with no closure, lapels, light shoulder pads and two faux front flap pockets. It is fully lined in a matching rayon and labeled "Cheap & Chic by Moschino Made in Italy". Tagged a vintage IT 44, D 40, GB 12, USA 10. It ends at the waist. The open front design will allow it to fit a variety of sizes depending on how you want to wear it.

Condition

This jacket is in excellent vintage condition. The slightest of discolouration inside of the collar at the neck and on the inside fabric near the lining. May come out with additional cleaning. Not visible from outside and almost too minor to be mentioned but provided for accuracy.

Size & Fit

Shoulders: 42 cm – 16.5" (seam to seam)

Bust: 98 cm – 38.6" (when "closed" under the arms from side seam to side seam)

Waist: 82 cm – 32.3" (when "closed")

Sleeve length: 59 cm – 23.2" (measured from shoulder seam)

Length: 45 cm – 17.7" (from neck to hem)

Measurements are taken flat and then doubled for bust and waist.

Approximate Modern Size:

Up to M

Eye-catching Moschino faucet handle jacket from his Autumn/Winter 1991 collection.

Description

Early Moschino pieces designed by Franco Moschino himself – often referred to as Italian fashion's "enfant terrible" – within the short period when he launched the House of Moschino in 1983 until he passed away in 1994 are very sought after. This treasure, like several others that will be listed gradually comes direct from a German socialite and fashion collector so has not been on the market prior to this.

The iconic jacket in a rare to find vibrant purple colour and its golden faucet handles on the front and the sleeves is a true conversation piece which captures the fun vibe that Moschino has always represented as a brand.

The faucet handles are marked C (Chaud = Hot) and F (Froid = Cold) and Cheap & Chic. The jacket features a double breasted style with lapels, light shoulder pads, front flap pockets and an inside button and snap button closure. It is fully lined in a vibrant red signed "Cheap & Chic by Moschino" rayon and labeled "Moschino Cheap & Chic Made in Italy". Tagged a vintage IT 42, D 38, GB 10, USA 8. Comes with two spare faucet knobs.

Condition

This jacket is in excellent vintage condition. Appears unworn. One pinhead size hole beside the faucet handle at the wrist of the left sleeve (see picture 10). Only visible under close inspection. Priced accordingly.

Size & Fit

Shoulders: 43 cm – 16.9" (seam to seam)

Bust: 96 cm – 37.8" (under the arms from side seam to side seam)

Waist: 82 cm – 32.3"

Sleeve length: 60 cm – 23.6" (measured from shoulder seam)

Length: 64 cm – 25.2" (from neck to hem)

Measurements are taken flat and then doubled for bust and waist.

Approximate Modern Size: S-M

Stunning "I Love Venice" jacket by Moschino's "Cruise Me Baby" Couture Collection from 1989.

Description

Early Moschino pieces designed by Franco Moschino himself – often referred to as Italian fashion's "enfant terrible" – within the short period when he launched the House of Moschino in 1983 until he passed away in 1994 are sought after and highly collectible. This treasure, like several others that will be listed gradually comes direct from a German socialite and fashion collector so has not been on the market prior to this.

This exceptional and rare to find vintage Moschino Couture jacket is part of Franco Moschino's coveted Cruise Me Baby collection from 1989. When designing this jacket Franco Moschino obviously had the Venetian flag in mind (see picture 13) combining the typical design with the blue colour that is acknowledged as the colour of Venice. It is an unworn wearable collectors piece and a love letter to Venice and Italy which captures the fun vibe that Moschino has always represented as a brand. 

The matt Venetian lagoon turquoise jacket has a cropped boxy shape that is accentuated with gold braiding. Attached decorated "tails" at the bottom are finished with long fringing in the same colour. Six decorative domed gold metal and fabric filigree buttons are set at the center front and close with a hooked chain running between them (see picture 10). At the back is the eye-catching appliquéd symbol of Venice, the winged lion with a halo around its head and holding a book below its paw with the sentence "I Love Venice" written in it.

The jacket has lightly padded shoulders and is lined in a golden rayon. It is labeled "Moschino Couture! Made in Italy" and tagged a vintage IT 42, D 38, GB 10, USA 8.

Condition

This jacket is in excellent condition. Unworn!

Size & Fit

Shoulders: 42 cm – 16.5" (seam to seam)

Bust: 99 cm – 39" (under the arms from side seam to side seam)

Waist: 97 cm – 38.2"

Sleeve length: 57 cm – 22.4" (measured from shoulder seam)

Length: 44 cm – 17.3" from neck to hem (fringe adds 13,5 cm – 5.3")

Measurements are taken flat and then doubled for bust and waist.

Approximate Modern Size: S-M

Eye-catching Spring/Summer 1996 ad campaign "Love me, Love me not" daisy print blazer by Moschino.

Description

This lovely documented (see last picture) Moschino double-breasted black blazer shows an all over daisy print in white and yellow and is made from a slightly structured cotton blend. It features a peak lapel collar, long buttoned sleeves, side flap pockets and a front button closure. All buttons are covered in matching fabric. The shape through the waist is all created by beautiful and curved seams that run vertically over the blazer. It is fully lined in a black rayon blend and labeled "Cheap and Chic by Moschino, Made in Italy".

Designer

Franco Moschino (1950-1994) was an Italian fashion designer. He studied arts in Milan and financed his studies by sketching fashion designs and illustrations. In 1983 Moschino founded his own company called Moonshadow and launched Moschino Couture the same year. He was internationally known for his provocative style. The press often labelled him "the Bad Boy of fashion". In 1989 he introduced the Cheap and Chic line. Moschinos work was a mixture of art, surrealism, irreverent charm and innovative design.

Condition

This blazer is in excellent vintage condition. Small yellowish smudge on the front near the hem that does not distract at all. It may come out with additional cleaning and is only visible under close inspection.

Size & Fit

Shoulders: 42 cm – 16.5"

Bust: 104 cm – 40.9"

Waist: 92 cm – 36.2"

Hips: 114 cm – 44.9"

Sleeve length: 61 cm – 24"

Length: 67 cm – 26.4"

Measurements are taken flat and then doubled for bust, waist and hips.

Approximate Modern Size: M-L

Reference Photo: Moschino Cheap & Chic advertising, 1996.

Eye-catching 1990s snakeskin waistcoat by Rupp & Taureck Couture.

Description

This hand made strawberry red waistcoat is made from soft snakeskin and feautures a small stand-up collar, colour-coordinated elastic insets between the leather stripes and a braided half belt in the back. It is fully lined in red logo print acetate and closes at the front with eight snakeskin covered buttons – comes with sewn-in spare button. The vest has inside a small appliquéd black leather pocket with the label's signature imprinted: "Modell, Qualité de Luxe, Rupp & Taureck, Création Walter Rupp". It is tagged a German size 42.

Designer

Rupp & Taureck Couture was a German high quality leather goods and fur manufacturer. The company closed its doors in 2002.

Condition

This waistcoat is in excellent vintage condition.

Size & Fit

Shoulders: 38 cm – 15"

Bust: 96 cm – 37.8"

Waist: 86 cm – 33.8"

Length: 48-55 cm – 18.9"-21.7"

Measurements are taken flat and then doubled for bust and waist.

Corresponding Modern Sizes:

Germany 38(-40) / UK 12(-14) /

USA 8(-10)